The Dish: Store-bought barbecue a delight right from fridge By Liz Biro Star-News Correspondent Published: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 at 7:40 a.m. Last Modified: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 at 12:52 p.m.
When I was a kid growing up in eastern North Carolina in the '70s, my mother often served chopped pork barbecue for dinner. The wax-paper tub of ready-to-heat, vinegar-seasoned meat came from a supermarket cooler. It was a quick-fix meal for my working mom, but it didn't taste good, even to us newly transplanted Jerseyites, who had never previously owned a grill. External Links: Click here to read more of The Dish from Liz Biro Later, as an adult smitten with true eastern Carolina pulled pork, I would recall those childhood experiences whenever I encountered awful barbecue. "Where'd this come from," I'd think to myself. "The grocery store?" So I wasn't excited to hear Leland's Piggly Wiggly (112 Village Road) was selling barbecue. A taste of the Pig's pork changed my mind, and I'm munching on ribs from the store's deli as I write this column. The tender, smoky ribs coated in chipotle-spiked rub taste so good cold from the refrigerator that I haven't bothered reheating them. The ribs come courtesy of SmokeRise BBQ (www.SmokeRiseBBQ.com), a Winder, Ga., company that puts competition-worthy barbecue in supermarkets. SmokeRise rejects precooked, prepackaged products in favor of in-store, wood-burning, smoker ovens trained pitmasters use to cook meats daily. When SmokeRise's Tony Mathis showed me the Pig's giant, stainless steel cooker, he was sure to open a chamber where hickory logs glowed. The smokers and the company's recipes are the same as those used by barbecue competition cooks. Mathis, a former barbecue restaurant owner, cooked alongside some of them. Besides chopped barbecue in sweet or vinegar sauces, SmokeRise offers smoked wings, hams, turkeys, salmon, whole chickens, St. Louis-style ribs, chicken salad and Texas-style beef brisket along with barbecue sauces and Butt Rub (www.buttrub.com), the delicious seasoning on my ribs. "We've got some Brunswick stew coming out in a few minutes if you can wait," he said. Unfortunately, I couldn't stay, but lucky me: I still have three ribs in the refrigerator.